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Over the years, there has been a few variations of the remote bleeder. They ranged from anything from a few -an fittings and line, to relatively nice working purpose built kits. But they have ALWAYS had their down fall. One of the original problems with early remote bleeders, was that they used crush washers at the mounting point of the slave. When that was finally addressed, the issue came at the other end. Being that there was no sure-fire way to mount a brake style bleeder fitting into an -an line, what you had to do, was crank the fitting down with everything you had. This posed a few problems. 1) you werent 100% sure it wouldnt seep. 2) The life of the fitting deteriorated since you had to tighten the heck out of it. The other issues are relatively minor in comparison. They stemmed from incorrect fitting angle, not using actual one person speedbleeders, and not giving you a way to get the fluid over the fender, and into a bottle.
Now comes the NEW TPE Remote Clutch Bleeder Kit!!
First off, we started from scratch. We took a factory slave bleeder fitting, and sent it off to be measured and digitized into a 3-d program. Once that was done, we had new stainless steel fittings made that are the exact depth, thread pitch, and taper of the factory fitting. This guarantees a perfect fit, with no chance of leaking. On the other end of this fitting, we machined it to allow for a -3 an male fitting..
When the fitting was finished, we measured out the proper length of line that we needed to run properly up to the brake booster. This is not just regular old line. It is teflon coated -3an brake bleeder line, with stainless steel exterior sleeving.
Now came the hard part. Figuring out a way to make this thing work flawlessly. We finally chose to run a one man, spring loaded Speed Bleeder. We quickly found out that by doing so, we had the same problem every other company had. So rather than accepting this flaw, we chose to have a special fitting machined, that would not only be permanently pressed onto the -3 an line, but work perfectly with the speed bleeder. In order to do this, we went through the same process as the original fitting at the slave. The end result, was a male and a female fitting that had the exact same taper, and thread pitch of eachother. This COMPLETELY eliminated the necessity of cranking down the fitting. You can now tighten it just like your brakes.
Once we had a proper working bleeder kit, we had 2 choices. 1) Zip tie it to the brake booster like everyone else, or 2) "Again" make a bracket assembly that bolts to an existing mount, which gives it a 100% OEM look. We chose the latter. Now, this clutch bleeder line comes with 2 small brackets. One bracket is attached to the line with an e-clip, while the other bracket mounts to the outer 15mm bolt on the master cylinder assembly. (At the base of the brake booster). When this kit is installed, it looks 100% factory, and is out of the way of all components of the car.
To top it all off, we wanted to take the kit 1 step farther. We chose to include 4’ of clear hose that, when you choose to bleed your clutch, it routes safely over your fender, and into a disposable bottle (not included).
So now, when you need to bleed or completely flush your clutch system, all you need to do, is slip on the clear hose, open your clutch master cylinder, insert the hose into a bottle, crack the fitting approx 1/8 of a turn, and pump away. There is no need to build pressure, and keep opening and closing. Since the bleeder fitting is spring loaded, it shuts every time there is no fluid being pushed. All you need to do, is make sure you dont drain your m/c. From start to finish, you can completely flush your system in less than 5 minutes. If you are a shop, and have a vacuum bleeder kit, its even faster. When your all done, you simply lightly tighten the speed bleeder, install the dust cap, and top off your fluid. Its that simple.
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